In New York. Concrete jungle where dreams are made up. There’s nothing you can’t do. Now you’re in New York.
Alicia Keys
This is a story from my first trip to New York four years ago, but it is very relevant in these times when we are encouraged to spend less time with people.
They say New York is the city of bright lights, the city that never sleeps. Whoever they are, they were right. I arrive at John F. Kennedy Airport late at night. My first thought is that The Subway is different to the Tube back in London. It’s dirty and it smells of unwashed bodies, garbage and human faeces. Filled with a mixture of party goers, the lonely business man with his shirt untucked after a late night shift and the rough sleeper who has made the subway carriage his bedroom for the night. It is just how I imagined it. Broken dreams and driving ambition side by side. It’s fascinating.
I jump on the Red Air Transit. I’m heading to Manhattan. Manhattan is the smallest of New York’s five boroughs, and the most densely populated one. It is home to Broadway, Times Square and The Empire State Building, to mention some. But you probably already know all that. And this isn’t about the typical New York. This is about my first steps alone in a city full of possibilities. And the time I met an astronaut.
I open the door to my hotel room at The Mansfield on West 44th Street. It is true that everything is grand here. I have a king size bed that is bigger than my London-bedroom. I decided to treat myself for my two days alone and upgraded to a superior. The Mansfield is old-fashioned and dark, but chique and stylish. Like stepping into an old library. I love it. Just off 5th Avenue it is the perfect stepping stone for my hectic schedule.
I get up at 6AM. It’s the jet-lag. I discover that American Coffee tastes like dirty water and that the oatmeal is watered down porridge. The red leather sofas and the dark oak decor in the Mansfield dining room makes up for it. Like a speak easy from the twenties. There is no time to waste. It’s time to get a real flavour for New York! (Aside from the soup-like oatmeal, that is).
I take in the New York air. The sun is pressing its way down between the many skyscrapers and the autumn air is surprisingly fresh. This lady is showing her good side today! I walk to The Grand Central Station. It bears its name with pride and is a true sight for any first time New Yorker. However, I’m here for the basement. The Grand Central Market. This is a luxurious strip of food stalls below the main station selling food to go and fresh produce, including an impressive food counter. You can also find the famous Grand Central Oyster Bar here. If you are at the station in the afternoon, why not try this out or head upstairs to one of the restaurants overlooking the main terminal for a great view. You can also venture all the way to the top to the cocktail bar Campbell’s Bar (Previously Campbell’s Apartment) – a 20s bar in the old office of railroad executive John Williams Campbell.
I get the Subway from Grand Central to West 4th Street Washington Square. Greenwich Village is decorated for halloween. Pumpkins on porches and cobwebs and skeletons in the windows. In just a few days the big Halloween Parade will pass through these streets. Whilst we wait, I hope you are hungry!
I start my Greenwich Food Walk on MacDougall Street. On first glance it doesn’t look very special, but this little street is filled with tasty bites and 100 years of flavour history. Many famous dishes apparently made their first American appearance here. I start with a Cappuccino at Caffe Reggio. Caffe Reggio was established in 1927 and claim to be the home of the original American cappuccino, brought to them by Italian Domenico Parisi. The original espresso machine made in 1902 is still on site in what is apparently the oldest cafe in Greenwich, featured in a number of films including The Godfather. I feel like I’m shooting my second scene from the twenties this morning, like if time has stood still. It really has the atmosphere of a thirties cafe with a little boho vibe.
Next door to Caffe Reggio is Mamoun’s Falafel. If you didn’t know better you’d mistake it for just another fast food joint, however, this is the original falafel in NYC with a special traditional Syrian recipe. It started as a falafel joint ran from a crammed apartment by an immigrant in 1969 and has now grown to a 10 restaurant franchise. I am not the biggest fan of falafel, but this one is really fresh and tasty! From here, head to Artichoke Pizza. This is one of three branches in the city and they specialise in, you guessed it, special artichoke toppings. The slices are super-cheesy and covers the whole of the cardboard plate it is served on. A perfect street food treat!
After indulging in both falafel and pizza before noon, time to head to one of the best cheese shops in Manhattan; Murray’s Cheese. This is a self-acclaimed foodie mecca offering fine cheeses, cured meats and more traditional deli items. You can also buy sandwiches and sit in. I wasn’t exactly hungry, but I enjoyed some fabulous cheese tasters including Murray’s special cave aged cheeses.
Next stop just a little further up Bleecker Street is Bantam’s Bagels. This cute little shop offers bite-sized bagels in lots of different flavours and it is the flagship store and original idea behind what has now become a retail sensation, also delivering bagel bites to chains such as Starbucks. However, nothing is like trying them fresh from their true home! Try the cinnamon swirl cream cheese or be brave and go for the jalapeño cheddar cream cheese bagel!
If you ever watched Friends (didn’t we all!), I’m sure you will feel some nostalgia when Central Perk is mentioned! The famous cafe truly only exists on a set in California, but the building and the location is alive and well in Greenwich Village. The lovely little restaurant The Little Owl occupies the famous space. I went in to have an early cocktail and a little snack and it is the perfect lunch spot. It has grasped the perfect balance of a touch of elegance combined with that friendly neighbourhood-local. Whilst we are reminiscing over the 90s series, we cannot forget Carrie Bradshaw and Sex and the City. Carrie’s flat is situated just around the corner on 66 Perry Street. It is still a famous photo-spot so you will probably see the cameras flashing before you notice the memorable staircase. It certainly does make for a good Instagram-moment! Just up Bleecker Street you’ll find Carrie’s favourite cupcake spot Magnolia Bakery. The queues usually come out the door, but it is worth the wait. Besides, we haven’t had our dessert yet!
It’s 2PM and I’m in need of a costume change. On the way back, why not check out one of Greenwich’s vintage shops in true Carrie-style? I stopped by Beacon’s Closet on West 13th Street for all those designer treasures, but have also heard great things about Hamlet’s Vintage on West 4th Street, which will take you right back to where we started!
After a little beauty sleep (or jet lag-nap, let’s call a spade a spade), I’m off to Junior’s just off Times Square to try what is apparently one of New York’s best traditional cheese cakes. The traditional cheese cake was invented by a Jewish-German immigrant called Arnold Reuben in 1929 and it has been a true flavour of New York served in Jewish delis across the city ever since. The traditional Junior’s is in fact in Brooklyn on Flatbush Avenue, but the Manhattan branch is equally good and has both a restaurant and a deli. Since I’m writing about exploring New York on my own, I have a slight disclaimer; it is in fact a friend that I have met through my travels taking me here. He is a true New Yorker and is insisting that I haven’t truly been to NYC if I haven’t tried the Junior’s cheese cake! It is only ever made with traditional Philadelphia cream cheese on a sponge instead of a cream cracker base. My friend is right. This cheese cake is truly something special and I might struggle to find a future contender… Junior’s also serves traditional American savoury dishes, so you can bite into some true barbeque ribs before attempting the dessert. The portions are very generous!
I leave my friend behind and head to Harry Cipriani on 5th Avenue in Midtown Manhattan. On the way I pass The Rockefeller Center and the ice rink. It already feels like Christmas! Harry Cipriani is an Italian Restaurant on the ground floor at The Sherry Netherland Hotel, and it is almost an exact duplicate of the original Harry’s Bar in Venice. Now, there are many Cipriani restaurants and clubs in New York, but this is the original one. I’m not here for the food, I’m here to drink Bellinis by the bar and people-watch. Not that I know what I’m looking for, but apparently a lot of high end clientele end up here, many of them famous in business, art or fashion. I feel like I could be in The Godfather, when an Italian New Yorker in a pinstripe-suit sits down next to me. He could be in the mafia for all I know, though he says he works in fashion. He helps pointing out some famous families in the restaurant for me and I feel I got exactly what I came for. The bellinis are pretty good, too…
I head across the road to The Plaza Hotel. Ever since I was a kid watching Home Alone 2 with my dad I have wanted to come here. It feels exactly as in the movie; a large lobby in cream colours with mosaique marble floors, thick Turkish rugs and a gorgeous chandelier hanging from the ceiling above some large vases of red flowers. I’m headed to The Rose Club for a night cap and to listen to jazz. They host jazz nights here every Wednesday night. The Rose Club is sophisticated and dimly lit. The decor and floors are dark and wooden, with furniture in many different patterns. It feels casual and homely compared to the grand lobby, similar to an old library, but the staircases and the ceilings are filled with ornaments. The jazz trio is placed in a corner playing American standard jazz; Ellington, Rodgers & Hammerstein and Porter. They decide on their set as the go along and all feels wonderfully relaxing with only a few tables watching. Worth the $22 cocktail. But only one. The cocktail list is extensive, luxurious… and expensive! My jet-lag is starting to get to me, and I’m meant to call it a night. However, as I’m about to leave I am approached by the table next to me asking if I’d like to join them for a drink. Two lawyers and an astronaut. I laugh it off. An astronaut? However, my adventure spirit takes over and although my body so desperately wants to go to sleep, I hear myself say yes. When we approach the club across the road on 58th Street and get greeted with champagne and hand shakes by the club manager, I realise that maybe it wasn’t just a catch up phrase. Turns out I have the honour of drinking champagne with astronaut Scott Kelly this evening, but I don’t believe it until he shows me his own personal photos from space on his phone. I then try to be as casual as possible about the fact the earth truly looks like that from space and I’m sat here with one of the men that has spent the longest time ever living in a space ship.
After an hour I politely say good night. In true Bradshaw style I hail a cab and feel like a princess on my way back from the ball in my yellow carriage rolling down 5th Avenue.
As I pull my duvet on tighter lying pretty much horizontal in this super-size bed, I can’t help but wonder; what just happened? I think the moral of the story is that when you are travelling alone you have a better chance of truly getting to soak up everything a place has to offer. Follow your gut, stay safe and grab the opportunities as the come your way!
It belongs to the story that I got to visit the wonderful 1 star Michelin Pub The Spotted Pig when I was in Greenwich, however, this institution sadly closed its doors in January 2020.
Concrete jungle where dreams are made up
Scandi Gourmet Girl 